I wanted a belay parka that packed essentially the most punch for the pound that might deal with every week of mountain climbing in Alaska. Enter the Rab Mythic Extremely.
The aim of most winter jackets made for the backcountry is having the very best warmth-to-weight ratio whereas nonetheless being sturdy sufficient for the duty. At a verified one pound, one ounce in a males’s measurement M, the Rab Mythic Extremely jacket was exceptionally gentle — however was it heat, breathable, and sturdy sufficient to behave as a belay jacket on massive ice routes within the mountains?
The Rab Lab mixed 900-fill energy hydrophobic down with a brand new TILT expertise to supply its lightest, but warmest, down jacket to this point. And Rab is thought for making gentle down jackets.
Briefly, the Rab Mythic Extremely jacket made for an impressively heat, breathable, and packable down belay parka throughout late-season mountain climbing in Alaska. For alpinists in search of essentially the most with the least weight, this calls for critical consideration when it releases this fall.
Introducing Rab TILT
Rab Lab underwent in depth area and lab testing to create a reflective layer inside the Mythic Extremely that maintains breathability and luxury. Dubbed TILT for Thermo Ionic Lining Expertise, the British model used an aluminum therapy in a scrim liner simply behind the interior face cloth. Rab claims this expertise reduces radiant warmth loss higher than the six different strategies it constructed and examined.
Rab mixed the TILT reflective scrim interior location with offset baffle building to supply the perfect efficiency. Putting TILT as near the physique as doable resulted in 200% better warmth retention than putting the scrim liner on the skin of the baffles, and it bettered the subsequent nearest building technique by 44%. This TILT expertise helped the Rab Mythic Extremely jacket win a Greatest in Present award on the 2022 Out of doors Retailer Snow Present.
Different Rab Mythic Extremely Jacket Specs
Rab backs up the brand new TILT expertise with a confirmed performer: 900 fill-power RDS licensed European goose down with Nikwax fluorocarbon-free hydrophobic end. It’s onerous to specify a extra highly effective fill-power with a hydrophobic end.
Climbers regard Rab’s chosen shell supplies as rugged performers. Rab makes use of 10D recycled Pertex nylon ripstop with a fluorocarbon-free DWR on the skin. The identical materials is on the within however with out DWR. The TILT aluminized scrim is 100% polyester.
The offset field baffle building is physique mapped for optimum heat and weight, and the sleeves are precurved for a greater match whereas lively.
There are two handwarmer pockets and one chest pocket with hidden YKK zippers. The primary zipper is a YKK Vislon #5 with double pulls, and each the hood and waist have elastic cords with captive twine locks.
The helmet-compatible hood has a visor with a stiffener within the brim.
First Look Evaluate: The Rab Mythic Extremely in Alaska
The jacket was clearly gentle for the quantity of loft, a lot that I feared it could tear on the primary outing, as many uber-light parkas have executed. To avoid wasting me an epic, I crammed it into my pack for an simply accessed multipitch ice route in Caribou Creek. It disappeared right into a nook, compressed to only over the dimensions of a softball.
After placing on my crampons and harness, I donned the quick-lofting parka to belay the primary pitch. We had been in a slender slot canyon with zero solar, and the temperatures had been within the higher teenagers or decrease 20s.
I used to be heat sufficient from the method to unzip earlier than my companion shouted “off belay,” however no moisture had constructed up on my interior layers, a testomony to the breathability because it was humid and nonetheless.
I led a pitch. Then, I put the Rab Mythic Extremely jacket on earlier than swapping gear with my companion. And identical to that, I dragged an ice screw tip throughout the decrease portion of the jacket. However, surprisingly, it didn’t tear.
I do know that the Pertex 10D ripstop is abrasion-resistant for the way gentle it’s, however I feel it requires some care in dealing with. However this time, no hurt, no foul. I received fortunate. The following day, I did this actual factor to a different super-light jacket whereas packing it and put a gap in it. It was additionally a recycled nylon shell, however not Pertex.
On the prime of the route, we took off our harnesses and crampons earlier than mountaineering down the again. I donned the Mythic Extremely as quickly as I used to be off belay. I used to be nonetheless heat from climbing however received busy coiling ropes and reracking gear earlier than I observed that I used to be heating up.
Conclusions on the One-Pound Marvel
The jacket was hotter than I anticipated for its weight. However I didn’t really feel any moisture on my again once I took the parka off and put my pack again on, so it proved breathable sufficient.
I continued to make use of the Mythic Extremely jacket throughout the journey, and it carried out because it did this primary day, all the way down to the teenagers with slight winds. It remained fairly humid for the rest of my journey, and I left impressed by the breathability.
For the situations and calls for of every week of backcountry mountain climbing in February in Alaska, the Rab Mythic Extremely jacket carried out splendidly as a belay parka. It stored me heat and dry throughout the stop-and-start nature of multipitch mountain climbing with minimal weight and packed measurement.
It did survive the week unscathed. The shell supplies are sturdy for the load however nonetheless require some care. Haphazard therapy round ice instruments, crampons, and jagged rock have torn this identical Pertex materials in different jackets.
However if you need one of many lightest jackets that may nonetheless hold you heat throughout prolonged delays at 10 to twenty levels or in camp, the Rab Mythic Extremely jacket is one robust contender.
Search for it in late fall 2022 for an MSRP of $475 in each males’s and girls’s variations.